Clarges Street may not be Mayfair’s smartest address and Miyama definitely isn’t its smartest restaurant, but more than 25 years down the line it’s still delivering “good Japanese fare”. Upstairs is all skylights and minimalist 3D art, with a menu that offers everything from mixed sashimi with Miyama ‘brown’ dressing to crispy soft-shell crab with lemon and soy sauce. Others drop by to enjoy steamed prawn dumplings, buttered scallop and asparagus, grilled teriyaki sea bass and the requisite selection of proper sushi ranging from cuttlefish to freshwater eel. Downstairs is more traditional, with two sushi bars and prints of kimono-clad courtesans on the walls. The menu’s detailed notes and informative saké selection should reassure novices.