L'Ortolan

The very model of a smart country-house restaurant, this Grade II-listed vicarage has played host to some of the UK’s top chefs over the years, such as Nico Ladenis, John Burton-Race, Alan Murchison and more.

The building may not look much from the outside, but the chocolate tones of the interior give out a soothing warmth, while notable private rooms also catch the eye for those looking to host a birthday meal or celebratory dinner – though the utter professionalism of the setting also makes L’Ortolan a good bet for romance, although it’s not exactly first-date material. 

The kitchen, as ever, brings high levels of sophistication to proceedings, creating “beautiful plates” and wonderfully honed flavours from a larder of impeccably sourced seasonal ingredients. Guests can choose to dine from the à la carte or the menu gourmand (a vegetarian option is also available), while those looking for the full experience can opt for the Discovery Menu – a surprise 10-course menu written up by the chefs daily.   

From the regular menu, dishes to try include torched mackerel with mango and wasabi, pan-fried bream with fregola salad and fennel, and aged duck breast with cherry and beetroot. Come dessert, you might find yourself digging into raspberry parfait with meringue and lemon, or cherry mousse with chocolate and pistachio. The cheese trolley meanwhile is a treasure-trove of ripeness for those of a savoury disposition, featuring a selection of British and French cheeses, and served alongside homemade raisin bread and biscuits.

We’re also fans of the well-drilled service which depends on “amazing teamwork” while L’Ortolan’s set lunch menus are a bargain for the blue-blooded Berkshire set. The patrician wine list is also notable for its impressive selection of organic and biodynamic bottles.  

Located in the quaint village of Shinfield, just a short drive from junction 11 of the M4, L’Ortolan is a sophisticated operation that is set within a Grade-II listed building. L’Ortolan serves a high-end, well-executed menu of contemporary French dishes and is widely accepted as one of the best restaurants in Reading.

The main dining room here is a smart and intimate space, which features just 11 tables. High back chairs, soft lighting and windows which allow natural light to flow through (as well as offering views of the manicured grounds) set a romantic mood, while extra character is added to the space via the works of well-established artists, such as Richard Rowan and Bob Barker, which hang from the dining room walls. It is hardly a surprise then that L’Ortolan is a popular spot for couples, particularly those with special anniversaries to celebrate.

The kitchen at L’Ortolan has been overseen by a number of Michelin star chefs over the years, but currently heading up the team is James Greatorex. The chef oversees a regularly changing menu of modern French fare, with a focus on getting the best out of good produce and working in harmony with the seasons. The restaurant is also able to accommodate for most dietary requirements if notified in advance and includes vegetarian options as part of its offering.

On your visit, you will be able to choose from an a la carte, or two multi-course tasting menus (‘Gourmand’ and ‘Elegance’). Dishes you might come across include the likes of Orkney scallop with celeriac broth, kohlrabi and radish or guinea fowl with chestnut, wild mushrooms and leeks. To round off your meal, you might tuck into a Mirabelle souffle or a selection of British and French cheeses.

To drink? Expect paired wines or innovative house cocktails.