Llewelyn's

Possibly the king of ‘if you know you know’ London restaurants, Llewelyn’s has been quietly knocking out quality menus for many years now in this quiet bit of south London. Herne Hill is the sort of semi-secluded London village that has you peering in through estate agent windows for a couple of minutes, and Llewelyn’s candlelit bistro vibe really matches the setting.

Inside the restaurant is buzzing - this is Herne Hill’s place to be of an evening (unless you’re next door in sister wine bar Lulu’s). Staff flit jovially between tables with plates and bottles, and the whole place has an air of fun and excitement. The menu, too, is a joy; it encourages you to soak in every stage of a good meal - a couple of boquerones and olives with a tomato water martini, then three courses of comforting, seasonal cooking. No wonder this is one of London’s low key favourites.

A starter of grilled ox heart with smoked winter tomato is beautifully done - the ox heart is rare and beefy, served more like a salad with a pistachio dressing. Also excellent is a plate of roast chicken with wild mushrooms and charred hispi cabbage. The chicken is beautifully cooked with juicy breast meat and crispy golden skin - it’s the sort of irresistible dish you can’t help but order, but rarely does it satisfy like this. It takes skill to pull that off, which makes the one small blip on the night all the more confounding - a monkfish tail which was lukewarm in the middle, perhaps rested too long or not flashed for quite long enough, though admittedly still very tasty.

We’re inclined to put small mistakes like that down to chance at Llewelyn’s, because everything else about this neighbourhood restaurant is superb, right down to a fabulous pear and almond tart. Thin, crumble, burnished pastry with beautiful frangipane, it sends us skipping out onto the pavement and home, which sadly, is not in Herne Hill.

Llewelyn's is a cosy neighbourhood restaurant in Herne Hill, where diners can enjoy modern European fare and an up-to-date wine selection. With indoor and outdoor seating, this restaurant is well-suited to the changing of the seasons. Facing Brockwell Park and immersed in the farmers' market on Sundays, eating here is a true escape from the hustle and bustle of London, without actually leaving the city. 

The menu here showcases vibrant, simply prepared dishes, served unpretentiously by cheery staff. Snack on house pickles or oysters with rhubarb mignonette and sip on house cocktails while you examine the subsequent options. You might start off with spicy sobrasada on toast, topped with piquillo peppers and capers, or burrata with broad beans with preserved lemon and bottarga. 

These colourful creations continue into the main courses, where a vegetarian dish might be wild garlic spelt with courgettes, pesto and salted ricotta. Seafood options often include a bisque, perhaps with cod, grilled mussels and leeks and meatier mains might feature a duck breast with celeriac, oyster mushroom and dandelion. Elegant sides are present if needed, such as crushed winter roots with sage and brown butter, or a bitter leaf salad with sherry vinegar dressing. 

Finally, desserts keep with the theme of pseudo-British. You might see something more Italian, like affogato or blood orange and pistachio polenta cake, or a more native choice like rhubarb queen of puddings.

Wines here are split into sparkling, white, red, rose, skin contact, oxidative, fortified and sweet, so there's plenty of choice when it comes to grape and process. Softs include house ginger beer or sparkling elderflower, while there is a short selection of beers and ciders. The cocktail list is also concise, offering espresso martinis, contratto aperitif spritzes or negronis, and some spirits for those who like to keep it simple.