Lina Stores Marylebone

Lina Stores has realised what many of London’s successful pasta restaurants have realised: our appetites for decent, reasonably-priced pasta show no sign of fading. Unlike the restaurant’s original site in Soho, it's quickly discerned that bigger is most definitely better, with this recent Marylebone instalment following in the footsteps of its King’s Cross and Bloomberg Arcade sites, which are also very large.  

It’s a bold move, but these guys needn’t worry about any empty seats. We arrived early on a Tuesday evening to an already-heaving dining room, the monotone rumble of chit chat turned up to a hundred. The brand’s signature mint interiors have been used craftily throughout, covering the tops of bar stools and on its candy-striped awning out front, while retro mahogany furniture and rustic wooden floors keep the authentic Italian theme intact.  

Dining at Lina Stores is informal, fast and slightly hectic. Our drinks arrived what felt like mere seconds after ordering them, our food less than 10 minutes later. A smile-inducing bowl of tightly-coiled crab linguine was cooked to al dente perfection, its creamy sauce clinging artfully to each strand without saturating the dish in cloying richness. A series of antipasti were the crescendo to this high note, if slightly hit and miss. The focaccia wasn’t the crisp, olive oil-slick thing we wanted it to be, although it was helped along nicely by a creamy ball of burrata, topped with pretty julienned slices of courgette. Desserts, meanwhile, were on par with the pasta. Do order the bigne al pistacchio: two beautifully crude profiterole-like balls filled with smooth pistachio cream and glazed in a glossy chocolate. These are very good.

We find it slightly amusing that the price of a cocktail will set you back the same amount as a bowl of pasta – which makes a meal here really good value, or really not, depending on how you look at it. Still, we’d happily return with the knowledge that note-perfect pasta and friendly neighbourhood vibes are a guaranteed part of the package.

In 1944, Lina from Genova opened her first delicatessen on Brewer Street. Not only is that deli still there over 75 years later, but Lina Stores now has five thriving branches, as well as another in Japan. Specialising in high quality, authentic produce and ingredients from Italy including fresh homemade pasta and dolci as well as cured meats and cheeses. As those who, like us, have enjoyed these goods for some time now well know, Lina also has restaurants. These branches turn out classic Italian dishes using only the finest ingredients. 

The menus at Lina's restaurants are brimming with staple Italian dishes that we know and love, alongside some regional dishes many Brits won't have seen before. Diners can start off with one of Lina's excellent aperitivi, including Vin Brule Prosecco, Negroni or Limoncello Spritz, while they peruse the impressive food selection. Aside from the sea salt and rosemary focaccia with house olive oil, antipasti include classics like arancini, salami or burrata, alongside lesser-known dishes such as gnocho frito with prosciutto and ricotta, tonno tonnato (Tonnato literally translates to "tuna'd", and refers to a mayonnaise-based tuna sauce, typically served on veal) or anchovies with grilled focaccia and cultured butter. 

Pasta is the star attraction here, with a wide range of dishes to choose from. Those not looking to branch out can opt for mafaldine alla carbonara, tagliatelle with beef shin ragu or pumpkin and ricotta agnolotti with sage butter. However, those who are will find some perhaps more adventurous dishes, such as duck and porcini mushroom ravioli with chestnuts, 30-egg yolk tagliolini with black truffle and parmesan, or Gnudi alla Sorrentina (ricotta and spinach dumplings served with a tomato sauce and parmesan).

Don't forget to save room for secondi, as these sharing plates of meat include fennel sausage with friarielli (Italian wild broccoli) and chilli, grilled prawns with garlic and lemon or lamb shoulder with salsa verde and grilled focaccia.