The glitzy interiors at this Mayfair newcomer leave you under no illusion that you’re dining on the most expensive square of the Monopoly board. Polished gold charger plates adorn the table, while thick curtains, statement mirrors, gilded lamps, marble tables and comfortable scalloped back chairs in various vivid green velvets all add to the allure.
IT began life as an Ibizan fine-dining restaurant and come the weekend this London outpost pays homage to the White Isle with DJ sets. A much safer bet, we think, is to enjoy the Italian food of Michelin chef Gennaro Esposito on the relative calm of a midweek evening.
Esposito isn’t afraid to put unusual twists on his menu among the classics. A peppery whipped butter generously accompanied anchovies to cloak and cajole them down little fingers of toast, a combination which was wholly satisfying in its simplicity, while a pairing of creamy Caesar-like tuna sauce covered crisp salad and accompanied veal in the old school dish of vitello tonnato.
Purists need not despair, as the likes of pasta and parmigiana are both present and correct. The former we ordered covered in a silky egg-yolk-rich carbonara sauce, which was spiked with salty cured pancetta, but came the wrong side of al dente for us (more like crunchy).
Despite the displeasure with which diners usually receive desserts that have been deconstructed, IT London boldly presents a plate of crumbs and cream and white chocolate discs and labels it as profiteroles. The hint of choux pastry might be hidden under all manner of other techniques, but this is the kind of pudding you don’t want to end, with sweet cream giving way to chocolate richness through a series of textures.
Laidback service can prove slow at times but the staff seem well meaning, and there’s a helpful sommelier to guide guests through the tome of a wine list. It’s here you’ll be reminded again of the area you’re in, with most bottles reaching the three-figure mark or more. We saw not so much as a wince from punters paying such a premium though, who – we suspect – are here less for the food and more for the fun.