Charlie’s at Brown’s

British, International, Italian·
££££
·
Silver Award
·

SquareMeal Review of Charlie’s at Brown’s

Silver Award

You wouldn’t expect London’s oldest hotel to stick with the same restaurant for its entire history but even for somewhere founded in 1832, Brown’s feels like it has been through more dining rooms than Britain has had prime ministers.

This latest incarnation (following 21st-century offerings from Mark Hix and Heinz Beck) comes courtesy of chef Adam Byatt, whose restaurant Trinity was one of the first to make Clapham into a bona fide dining destination. The chef may change but the dining room remains very much the same - large portraits of King Charles and QEII hang on the wood-panelled walls, and as you sink into a plush velvet banquette you’ll likely be greeted by a number of charmingly old-school staff.

‘Nature to plate’ is a strong theme of the classic-meets-contemporary menu, though at these prices and in a hotel of this pedigree, well-sourced seasonal British ingredients ought to be the least one can expect. Fortunately they’re treated with great respect by Byatt and team, and dishes lean towards comfort, rather than taking themselves too seriously. A classic steak tartare is a good example of that - a dish Byatt also does supremely well at Trinity - and we’re glad to see hand cut strozzapreti also making an appearance, currently with a thoroughly winterish sauce of squash, sage and pecorino.

A steamed fillet of halibut - served with a rather niche but lovely sauce divine - was wonderful, presented in all its meaty, pearlescent glory with classic sides. Meanwhile, a British game pie was also excellent, though in a restaurant like Charlie’s, we’d like to see a full pie rather than a pastry lid.

Throw in one of London’s biggest wine cellars and you have a recipe for success, albeit a very expensive one. If it’s old-school comforts you’re looking for, Charlie’s will warm your soul.

Good to know

Average Price
££££ - £50 - £79
Cuisines
British, International, Italian
Ambience
Fine dining, Luxury, Quiet conversation, Traditional
Food Occasions
Breakfast, Dinner, Lunch, Sunday roast
Special Features
Counter dining, Vegetarian options, Wheelchair access
Perfect for
Celebrations, Special occasions

About

Sir Rocco Forte might have bid farewell to acclaimed chef Heinz Beck after his year-long residency at the distinguished Brown’s Hotel in Mayfair, but he’s found a suitably high-profile replacement in new chef-director, Adam Byatt. A familiar face from television programmes such as Saturday Kitchen, Byatt is best known in the industry as chef proprietor of Michelin-starred Trinity restaurant in Clapham, which he runs in addition to Upstairs at Trinity and British neighbourhood eatery, Bistro Union.

While Beck was renowned for his skill with pasta, Byatt is an ambassador of high-quality British ingredients. Describing himself as a ‘truly British chef’, his passion for seasonality and the great outdoors is matched only by his extraordinary energy and a desire to showcase the very best the country has to offer in his cooking. It’s this natural synergy with Brown’s – a hotel since 1837 and home to the capital’s first public dining room – that has created such a buzz around his new post.

The hotel’s attractively refurbished wood-panelled grill room, newly rechristened Charlie’s, has been brought into the 21st century by the addition of bold wallpaper, brightly coloured upholstery and soft lighting, making it the ideal setting for a menu that celebrates innovative British cooking coloured with European influences.

On the food front, Byatt’s dishes include more traditional assemblies such as whole poached salmon and roasted Yorkshire grouse with blackberries and bread sauce alongside the types of pretty plates Byatt is well known for, such as fried courgette flowers with truffle honey.

Dining at Brown’s is about more than just the food, though. The restaurant’s white-jacketed waiters are as old school as they come (knowledgeable, polite and exacting in their standards), as are its eye-watering wine prices. Still, we think it’s an experience worth paying for, even if it is just the once.

Meet the team
Charlie’s at Brown’s

Adam Byatt

Chef Director

Adam Byatt is one of the most well-respected names in London's extensive restaurant scene - as chef patron of Trinity, Trinity Upstairs and Bistro Union in Clapham, he's done more than most to put Clapham firmly on the London food map. Byatt also has deeply personal links to Brown's Hotel, and hotel kitchens in general, having started his career at Claridge's as a 16 year old. 'Taking this step and joining the team at Brown’s Hotel is a very exciting moment for me, and it feels like a natural progression both professionally and personally,' he says.


This venue also offers

Brown's Hotel
Event Party Venue

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Private Group Dining

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Wedding Venues

Brown's Hotel

Location

Brown’s Hotel, 33 Albemarle Street, Mayfair, London, W1S 4BP

020 7518 4004 020 7518 4004

Website

Opening Times

Breakfast
Mon 07:00-10:30
Tue 07:00-10:30
Wed 07:00-10:30
Thu 07:00-10:30
Fri 07:00-10:30
Sat 07:00-10:30
Sun 07:30-11:00
Lunch
Mon 12:00-15:00
Tue 12:00-15:00
Wed 12:00-15:00
Thu 12:00-15:00
Fri 12:00-15:00
Sat 12:00-15:00
Sun 12:30-15:30
Dinner
Mon 18:00-22:00
Tue 18:00-22:00
Wed 18:00-22:00
Thu 18:00-22:00
Fri 18:00-22:00
Sat 18:00-22:00
Sun 19:00-22:30

Reviews

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3 Reviews 
Food/Drink
Service
Atmosphere
Value

Gilly N

28 March 2023   - Verified Diner
Food & Drink 5
Service 5
Atmosphere 5
Value 5
Superb

Absolutely superb in every way 
So happy to have Paul and Jesus heading up this restaurant. 

Anon

17 January 2023  
Food & Drink 4
Service 5
Atmosphere 5
Value 3
Service & the Room

Am surprised this is not in the top 100 restaurants in London. Is certainly in the top 10 in Mayfair. One never went to Le Caprice just for the food which was good at good prices, not great at great prices. You went for the atmosphere, yes the food which never let you down &, more importantly, Jesus Adorno & Paul Stabbins who now grace Charlie's.

in these times restaurants are finding it tougher & tougher yet these two have created a gem in Charlie’s. The room is not Le Caprice - is more fun and with different lighting. The menu is more expensive but different. Jesus & Paul are the same- quality. They make you feel at home. 
Credit to Sir Rocco Forte, he went for the best 2 & got them. Charlies is a great restaurant & we are lucky to have them. 

john E

08 October 2021   - Verified Diner
Food & Drink 4
Service 5
Atmosphere 5
Value 5
Calm and Stylish

Excellent choice if you want style and space. A delightful dining room, not too restauranty not too hotely - the best of both.

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