Competition for customers in Crown Passage is fierce – the auctioneer Christie’s headquarters & big business monoliths are nearby – but Il Vicolo keeps the punters coming in with an appetising, ‘greatest hits’ Italian menu. Antipasti include enduring favourites such as caprese salad & bresaola con carciofi (thin slices of air-dried beef with rocket & artichoke hearts), while main courses are straightforward dishes ranging from char-grilled cod with olive oil & lemon dressing to seafood risotto. Some might find the white dining room rather spartan & soulless, & staff can look bored to be there – which makes prices seem steep when compared to nearby rivals.