The Game Bird at The Stafford London

Whatever way you slice it, The Stafford is a lovely hotel - it retains a sense of British sophistication without becoming too staid or formal, which is not easily done in this thoroughly besuited corner of Central London. You’ll find The Game Bird is similarly relaxed. In contrast with some cavernous hotel dining rooms, this is a cosy affair - white tablecloths are out in favour of marble and wood table tops, and the room is awash with cool greys and rich, gleaming red leather. We visited in winter and also found open fires roaring away in the lounge.

The Game Bird has its elegant touches too. The armchairs are embroidered with art deco pheasants and partridges, and moody low lighting beams out from the central bar, which houses a phenomenal wine list and spirit collection.

There are no elaborate tasting menus here, just a solid, no-nonsense a la carte full of cooking that you simply want to eat. Lisa Goodwin-Allen’s remit now extends to the menu at The Game Bird and her modern British sensibilities are clear in many dishes, like a mushroom Scotch egg with garlic mayonnaise, or a stout tower of cod and shoestring potatoes with warm tartar sauce - an elegant riff on fish and chips.

If you love classic cooking done well, you’ll find yourself with far more good options than you have space in your belly for, whether it’s a quality hand-cut beef tartare, free-range chicken Kyiv packed with truffle butter, or an outstanding Dover Sole meuniere, filleted table side and served with a smooth 2018 Graves sauvignon from Chateau de Chantegrive. Save room for desserts too, the best of which is a feather-light apple pie souffle with vanilla ice cream.

Granted, The Game Bird is not a cheap place to eat, but given the surroundings that isn’t surprising. What you do get for your money is a guarantee - if you come this way hoping for elegant, comforting food in luxuriant surroundings, you won’t leave disappointed.

Luxury five-star hotel The Stafford in St James’s is home to this contemporary British restaurant, The Game Bird, where seasonal ingredients and simple yet elegant dishes are served in comfortable and relaxed surrounds. It’s headed up by acclaimed British chef Lisa Goodwin-Allen, who joined the restaurant in 2021 and works collaboratively with executive chef Jozef Rogulski to create its innovative menu. Lisa brings a ton of experience with her to The Stafford, while drawing on her time spent at Michelin-starred Northcote in Lancashire.  

The menus all champion the finest British produce and artisan producers, while recreating familiar family favourites with an elevated spin. The main menu begins on a luxurious note, with diners able to whet their appetite with a choice of oysters or Exmoor caviar with English crumpets. A concise selection of starters features the likes of hand-cut aged west country beef tartare with beef fat onion, horseradish crème fraîche and crispy sourdough, or vine tomato consomme with home dried tomatoes and basil. You can also opt for something from the ‘smoked and cured’ section of the menu, which includes a H Forman & Son smoked salmon or house-cured chalk stream trout gravadlax.  

Mains dishes offer indulgent takes on old-school classics: think steak and ale steamed suet pudding with potato puree or triple cooked chips, Orkney scallop tempura with garlic and tarragon emulsion and chips, venison wellington for two with sour cream potatoes, grilled asparagus and truffle, and goat's cheese ravioli with asparagus, toasted pine nuts and watercress. The pudding menu is not to be missed, with amalfi lemon meringue gateau, rhubarb crumble souffle and crepes suzette flamed tableside all on offer.  

There are also separate Sunday lunch, afternoon tea, breakfast and set menus available.  

The drinks list features a collection of signature, all-day, classic and after-dinner cocktails, as well as a dedicated negroni list. Wines can be ordered by the glass or bottle, while vintage Champagne, premium spirits and an impressive whisky collection complete the experience.