Ginza St. James's

The corner of the West End where Mayfair segues into St James’s has become the spiritual home of London’s slick, modern Japanese restaurants. And so, after 23 years on Bury Street, traditional teppanyaki outfit Matsuri closed for six months, emerging £2.5m later as Ginza St James's.

Out go the tabletop hot plates, replaced by contemporary trappings including a robata grill, marble sushi bar, pale woods, monochrome furnishings and high-spec private rooms. However, this is not the place to come for California rolls or blow-torched tuna; rather, the kitchen deals in exquisite updates on the Japanese hallmarks of delicacy and refinement, alongside ultra-respectful versions of classic sushi and tempura.

Our favourites included tuna tartare with spicy miso sauce and a crunch of roasted pine nuts, sticky chunks of yakitori made with Norfolk Black chicken skewered on cocktail sticks, and black cod with miso that actually tasted like fish, rather than just something very sweet. A wine cabinet groaning under the weight of Super Tuscans, sakes and Japanese single malts reveals Ginza's greatest asset: eye-opening food and drink matching. Just ask the enthusiastic staff to recommend their favourite dishes. A ‘Tsubaki’ set menu for £45 offers an affordable way in, while the £250 ‘Takumi’ indicates how much one could easily spend here.

Ginza St James’s is a high-end and authentic Japanese restaurant, which is well suited to the chic neighbourhood of SW1.

The dining room here is monochromatic and minimalist, featuring a mixture of glossy marble surfaces and dark wood furnishings, alongside dining counters for those looking for a side of theatre with their dinner. The kitchen at Ginza St James’s celebrates the traditional cooking styles that have been used for centuries in Japan, with the extensive menu split between an a la carte and dedicated sushi and teppanyaki offerings.

Begin your meal with a selection of cold and warm starters, including the likes of seared Wagyu sashimi served in a ponzu citrus and miso sauce or deep fried crispy chicken served with a wedge of lemon. Next, move on to sushi rolls (varieties to choose from include salmon and avocado and spicy prawn) or take your pick from dishes that have been cooked on a robata grill, such as black cod slicked with miso or salmon teriyaki. You can also enjoy dishes from the teppanyaki counter, which range from the carnivorous likes of chicken teriyaki and kagoshima beef to fishy finds such as Canadian lobster or king prawns dressed with onion and garlic.

To round off your meal, tuck into a selection of Japanese-inspired desserts such as mochi ice cream or passionfruit curd with a lychee sorbet. To drink, there is sake and international wines, alongside a list of fun house cocktails.

For those looking to try something different, Ginza St James’s also offers a Japanese twist on a traditional afternoon tea. Guests begin with the likes of a mini Wagyu burger and black cod croquettes, before moving on to sweet treats such as a chocolate brownie and mango mochi. You can pair your tea with bubbles too, if you fancy.