This luxe hotel group has a special-occasion feel without putting on airs and graces: polished wood and warm lighting create a cosy, clubby feel in the bistros, while smartly uniformed, professional staff deliver plates of French-accented comfort food to diners who prefer the traditional three courses to modern fads for queues, sharing and obscure ingredients. Steaks are the kitchen’s signature, and the grill dispenses a fine selection from pink-hued onglet to well-timed chateaubriand for two, while other meaty highlights might range from slow-braised mutton stew to pull-apart pork belly with chestnuts and silky pommes mousseline. As befits the name, the wine list delivers on all counts, with a 25-strong house selection available by the glass and carafe, plus a heavy-duty compendium of big-ticket bottles. HdV is a favourite for dining out with the parents – whether they’re treating you or vice versa.