This born-again Tooting tavern has become a friendly community hub, furnished in recycled Edwardian gubbins and aiming to cater for all. Uncork decent Rioja Crianza or Chateauneuf du Pâpe for around £20, sip a Bellini, or pick up a pint of Charles Wells’ Bombardier. Then you might explore the secret garden or head for the basement cinema (screening cult and kids’ classics). Alternatively, catch stand-up comedians, live gigs, or follow big matches in the bar. A meal might start with mussels in any of three broths – cider, smoky bacon and leek, perhaps – or crisped chickpea beetroot and pomegranate salad. To follow, typical crowd-pleasing mains include cod and chips or venison and clapshot pie with mash and parsley sauce. Desserts are traditional in flavour, so choose from the likes of crumbles, mousses, crème brûlée, steamed puds and a ‘stinky cheeseboard’. Sunday roasts and breakfasts add to the pub’s widespread appeal.