Fresh, fun and independent, Gas Street Social is the standout bar-restaurant at Brum’s Mailbox complex. It’s an all-day brasserie-style operation of striking appearance: exposed brickwork and piping juxtaposing wonderfully with the clean, white-tiled bar. A convivial buzz is created by workers from the nearby BBC and bright young locals. To eat, the sharers’ menu steals the show, with crispy arancini balls and the deliciously retro chicken vol-au-vents outstanding. Salads, burgers and mains such as duck breast in 12-spice sauce provide back-up, and steaks come from acclaimed butcher, Aubrey Allen. Service on our visit was uniformly warm and rapid. From the divertingly original, if pricey, cocktail menu our top pick is the Socialite, a moreish slurp combining Finlandia vodka, Aperol and zingy fruit. Alternatively, try the Chieftain IPA or something from the stripped-back wine list. In all, this is a well-thought-out, neatly executed enterprise that’s unquestionably worth the expense.