The new opening at the National Theatre comes with a lot of expectations behind it, following in the footsteps of its first site in Peckham which has become a favourite for foodies and wine lovers alike. On arrival, it’s clear to see that the location trumps its South London counterpart, with cracking views of the river available from Forza's nest in the roof of the iconic brutalist landmark.
The food here is paired back to create simple plates that allow individual flavours to shine, a concept we found worked for some of the dishes. The meal kicked off on an impressive note with cauliflower fritti served alongside a healthy dollop of aioli, which hit the mark on both flavour and texture. Another well executed dish came in the form of green beans with tarragon, served on a bed of hazelnuts, which packed a punch with every mouthful. We appreciate a rustic dish as much as the next, but there were occasions where mediocre dishes were left with nowhere to hide, especially given the price point. We expected more from some dishes, such as the no-frills mozzarella with fig and olive oil, and the bread and butter, which arrived as an uninspiring portion of toast topped with a butter that didn’t quite work flavourwise.
Of course, Forza Wine is just as much about the wine as it is the food, and it has a carefully curated list with some well and lesser known bottles on the menu. We opt for the Gavi following some suggestions from our knowledgeable waiter, and it works well to cut through each dish.
Forza Wine has certainly nailed the buzzing atmosphere, and an even better view, but could benefit from a few tweaks in its next few opening months to nail the balance between effortless chic and mundane.