Harvey Nichols’ penchant for high-rise dining has found the perfect home on OXO Tower’s eighth floor. A site of two halves, the eastern side features the flagship restaurant; a more formal experience than its brasserie counterpart with pristine white tablecloths, multi-course menus and astute service.
We make our way to seats overlooking the Thames - the best seats in the house - with faux-grass underfoot and St Paul’s in the distance. Despite the incredible views from the wrap-around, OXO Tower isn’t just style over substance.
A chef’s tasting menu is on the cards this evening, a seven-course option which comes as intriguing and simple one-word descriptions - ‘Scallop’, ‘Lamb’, ‘Strawberry’ - that have you putting yourself into the hands of the very capable chefs. Each dish has a central focus, every ingredient’s origin pinpointed on the menu’s map of the British Isles. It’s an interesting and carefully constructed concept, spanning a variety of dishes with fish, meat and veggies, each getting their moment in the spotlight.
Scallop tartare arrives topped with a soy-cured quail’s egg yolk, swimming in a cucumber and green chilli sauce. The fish is fresh and light, with hints of chilli which are careful not to overpower. There’s a pleasant simplicity to the menu, each dish combining just a few staple ingredients. White asparagus is another standout, deep-fried with a crispy outer layer that delivers a satisfying crunch with each bite. It's a pleasing amalgamation of texture and flavour all rolled into one, served atop a delicately seasoned gribiche sauce.
Whilst every plate is well-crafted, the menu starts to feel a bit formulaic as the evening wears on, courses following the same structure and perhaps playing it a little safe. For the £115 price tag, we would have appreciated a bit more variation and creativity across the menu.
Service here, however, is impeccable; a skilled team harmoniously floats around, crumbing tables and replacing cutlery after each course, seamlessly recommending wine pairings from the tome-like menu. It’s a sweltering night but our water glasses are never empty, a bucket of ice always on hand.
Whilst the views are undoubtedly a bonus, OXO Tower Restaurant holds its own as a fine dining spot for every occasion, with seasonal menus and top-quality service that can’t help but impress.