Re-opened after a hiatus of more than 14 years, this well-known St Albans boozer has rapidly re-established itself as a “local favourite” – thanks to the efforts of talented chef Andrew Knight, “excellent host” Sean Hughes and a “delightful energetic team”. Craft beers and real ales are taken seriously here, and there are some “great gins” too, but most punters are here for the “incredible” food. A ‘snacking menu’ is served in the front room (think spiced lamb koftas, Scotch ‘bonnet’ eggs or halloumi fries with habanero jam), but it pays to plump for the more extensive ‘bill of fayre’ served in a separate room at the back. Here you can expect “fine dining without the fuss of silver service”: steamed Cornish mussels with carrots, black rice and tarragon; slow-cooked ox cheek with Parmesan breadcrumbs, thyme cream and cauliflower purée; warm gingerbread with butterscotch sauce and candied orange. A “buzzy atmosphere” prevails.