Amongst all the grandeur of the City of London, Coya offers a welcome change from the kind of old-school dining that is rooted in the area. Arjun Waney’s Peruvian spin on his phenomenally successful Zuma concept draws crowds with its Pisco Bar and menu of small sharing plates that takes diners on a tour of the continent’s culinary hits.
Instagram-worthy interiors are part of the draw; artistic extravagance juxtaposes vibrant pops of bold colour against earthier tones. Suspended wooden trellises are climbing with greenery, an eclectic array of artwork and decor adorning the stone walls. It’s perhaps not as over-the-top as its Mayfair counterpart, but it’s distinctly recognisable in its design.
A Pisco Sour is a fitting start to our evening of Peruvian fare, and Coya makes it as well as any we’ve had, adorning it with the restaurant’s logo for added flair. Guacamole continues the theatrics, ground together tableside into a creamy and lightly spiced dip that we scoop up with corn tortillas.
Where Coya truly shines is in its ceviche offerings, with an entire crudo section on the menu brimming with options. We start with the clasica ceviche; fragrant sea bass paired with sweet potato, charred corn, and crisp red onion, all bathed in a zesty sauce. A truffle alternative is bold and aromatic, perhaps lacking subtlety, but showcasing that Coya doesn’t do things by halves.
The highlight of the evening is the arroz nikkei, a tender sea bass cassoulet with sweetcorn puree. Fragrant saffron rice, fiery chilli, and perfectly cooked fish make this a rather unforgettable main course. A patatas bravas side dish, however, just doesn’t quite work for us; its mildly crispy potatoes coated with strings of tomato, and cheese sauce that lacks the same punch as some of the dishes so far.
No meal at Coya would be complete without churros. These crispy, golden sticks are dusted in sugar and citrus zest, and we dunk them into an indulgent blend of milk chocolate and dulce de leche, devouring them in minutes.
Bold flavours and a buzzing atmosphere make Coya a place to visit any day of the week, although be prepared to pay handsomely for these delights.