Born from the same group that spawned Quality Chop House, Portland and 64 Goodge Street, Clipstone is now in its eighth year of trading and every bit as popular as it was since day one. This relaxed neighbourhood restaurant is one of those quietly brilliant, fairly-priced places that doesn’t necessarily get talked about all that often, but it’s still there on the corner of Clipstone Street, doing its thing. That ‘thing’ is a daily-changing seasonal menu of modern and precise, but ultimately relaxed, cookery in an equally pared back, on-the-brink-of-special-occasion setting.
The space is snug, but not too small that it can’t accommodate an open kitchen showcasing a commendable all-female chef team, and separate bar area on the other side of the room. The word ‘neighbourhoody’ springs to mind - dimly lit, tightly packed, lots of chit chatter and the loveliest staff. The sort of place where you start with a round of Negronis and a pot of XL olives (we did this, you should too) while you browse the menu.
Seasonality is a big deal at Clipstone, culminating in elegant, veg-forward dishes like crispy tempura courgette flowers stuffed with salty, whipped ricotta, then finished with the double sweet hit of candied walnuts and honey - perhaps too sweet for some, but we enjoyed its heavy handedness. A riff on venison tartare muddled with the dull earthiness of beetroot and tangy goat’s cheese was designed to be scooped up with homemade crisps. Fun! Larger plates start from £25, and showcase some excellent skill and flavour, like stuffed poussin elevated with blobs of intensely sweet black garlic gel, and perfectly cooked cod paired with the ever-successful trio of smoked bacon, peas and cream. There were a couple of trip-ups, like an aerated chocolate mousse seasoned with slightly too much salt, a minor hiccup in an otherwise excellent meal.
The wine list has also been carefully conceived and features a little bit of everything, from trendy oranges and Pet Nats to easy drinkers and splash-the-cash bottles. Clipstone might not be flashy or new, but it’s still there and it’s still loved. This is your reminder to pay it a visit soon.