A veritable Brightonian institution, this vast seafront restaurant manages the impressive trick of pleasing two completely different palates. By day, it's filled to capacity with Chinese families lunching at length on its excellent dim sum with desserts to match. Prawn and vegetable dumplings and sticky rice in lotus leaves are particularly tasty. By night, businessmen and couples dine on well-made and expensive classics, such as squid with garlic and chilli and chicken in black bean sauce, to the sound of the cocktail pianist. Service is charming and booking essential.