Mere months after the closure of his flagship restaurant, Michel Roux Jr. has returned, this time housed within the swanky walls of the Langham Hotel. Chez Roux may have only been open for a few weeks, but it feels as if it has already lived a lifetime here. That's in part because Roux Jr - already chef director of The Langham - knows this hotel well, but also speaks to the classic values of this restaurant, which understands what true hospitality is all about.
It’s hard not to be swept up in the undeniable glamour of the place, with its sparkling chandeliers and mirrored columns that bounce light around the room. Everything is pristine; not a fork out of place on the freshly pressed white tablecloths. A grand piano is tucked to the side, hinting at nights of live music. Service is professional and astute, as would be expected: no glass is left unfilled, wines seamlessly recommended. Crusty loaves arrive fresh from the oven, baskets are refilled as we polish them off; never needing to ask.
There’s a personal history woven throughout Chez Roux, almost autobiographical as we’re regaled with stories from the chef’s childhood; not to mention the self-portrait that sits at the entrance, perhaps an ode to that of his father which hung at Le Gavroche for years. We begin with an amuse-bouche; a recipe of nostalgia from Roux’s early years growing up in Kent. A punchy little tribute of delicate, creamy cheese between two sablé biscuits that we devour in one bite.
High quality, well-executed simplicity seems to be on the cards as we tuck into shredded salmon rillettes, the smoky fish perched atop Jersey royals which are brought to life by smotherings of leek and buttermilk sauce. Everything is finely tuned, no ingredient out of place.
We continue with familiar recipes; a lamb reform that has made its way back into the chef’s repertoire, famed for its time on the original menu at Le Gavroche. Crispy-coated lamb chops are tender on the inside and come with a touch of theatricality: a reform sauce is poured table-side, a lingering fruitiness that offsets the gamey lamb faggot and elevates everything it touches. It’s truly excellent.
Disguised amongst the opulent grandeur of The Langham, there’s a real nostalgia to Chez Roux; a menu of simple, albeit elevated, comfort food that embraces the past in this new endeavor.