Keith and Nicola Braidwood’s “culinary gem” has stood the test of time and maintained its Michelin star for more than two decades – “a brilliant achievement by any standards”, notes one fan. Occupying an unassuming, one-time miller’s cottage, the seven-table dining room is decorated in subdued shades, but don’t be fooled by the homely surrounds: Keith’s kitchen has signed up to the modern school of gastronomy and flavours operate in a high gear. Roast quail breasts and confit legs are served with black pudding on a warm salad of roast beetroot and pine nuts, while loin of Ayrshire lamb appears alongside slow-cooked neck fillet and an aubergine ragù. Fish also features strongly (perhaps grilled fillet of turbot and monkfish with braised fennel, asparagus and shellfish jus). To finish, don’t miss the old-fashioned bread-and-butter pudding with caramel sauce. While Keith takes personal control of the kitchen, wife Nicola runs front of house with amiable good humour: “long may they continue”, concludes a long-time admirer.