Bob Bob Ricard is a much-loved Soho institution, but the glam interiors and luxe menu always felt better suited to the Square Mile. In 2019, Bob Bob Ricard birthed a City sibling, which enjoyed just a year of trading before the onset of Covid-19 forced it to temporarily close. Instead of reopening once restrictions lifted, the restaurant remained shut for 19 months in order to undergo a multi-million pound refit which brought the look of the place in line with the Soho original.
In real terms, that translates as replacing the lighting, furniture and artwork, and switching up the menu of special occasion comfort food. The interiors are still jaw-dropping though, featuring bespoke chandeliers and mirror-polished steel trim. Every table in the dining room is also a booth, a refreshing find in London where so often you are elbow to elbow with fellow diners.
It’s easy to see Bob Bob Ricard as tailormade for City suits with more money than sense, but the restaurant backs up its sheer ostentatiousness with an extremely capable menu. We kicked things off with a quartet of Russian dumplings stuffed with a heady mix of truffle, potato and mushroom. Next came chateaubriand, aged for 28 days and boasting a marbled texture that practically melts on the tongue. Sauteed spinach and fries topped with nutty truffle made for strong supporting acts. Pair your food with a glass from the mightily impressive Champagne list - we loved the crisp Dom Perignon 2012.
If you fancy a pre-dessert palate cleanser, try Bob Bob Ricard’s vodka shots, infused with lemon and served straight from the freezer at -18 degrees. For your actual pudding, it’s hard to beat the indulgence of the ‘Chocolate Glory’, a gold embossed sphere that melts under the heat of warm chocolate sauce (poured tableside) to reveal a centre akin to a pimped-up Ferrero Rocher.
Now that hospitality is open once more, there has been lots of talk of the ‘roaring twenties’ and it appears Bob Bob Ricard is leading the charge for the return of fun, big-ticket dining in the City. We’re all for it.