Don't be fooled by the breezy timber-clad interior or the relaxed staff – this pocket-sized eatery is a serious addition to the local scene. Good coffee, freshly made juices, sandwiches and pastries draw in hungry commuters, and a bountiful brunch menu pulls weekend crowds, but it's at lunch and dinner that the kitchen gets to stretch its legs. Small plates (note the pretty crockery) show off its skills to good effect: our tomatoes and torn burrata licked with basil oil spoke of expert sourcing, while girolles on toast topped with a fried egg delivered seasonal simplicity. Larger dishes such as plump duck breast with thick-skinned pumpkin tortellini and steamed broccoli are less successful, though our molten chocolate fondant was bang on the money. The chairs may be "uncomfortable", but locals love the selection of by-the-glass options on the short wine list.