Bincho Yakitori

Chef Dave Miney learned the smoky secrets of Japanese barbecue during a formative spell cooking in izakaya bars in Tokyo. He launched Bincho Yakitori at London’s Oxo Tower in 2007 and then in Soho, but has now swapped the capital for a rundown backstreet off Brighton beach. This unlikely location adds an authentic grungy feel to the place, epitomising the atmosphere of Japan’s late-night drinking dens. The foil-clad grill, which glows with slow-burning binchotan coals, forms the backbone of the open kitchen, producing skewers replete with spice, umami and smokiness. Think gamey chicken hearts, gratifyingly fatty pork belly and sticky Korean chicken wings (a cult favourite). The vegetable dishes are just as good: from sweetcorn smeared with miso butter to charred sweet potato. Japanese craft beers and a concise list of sakés help maintain the buzzy vibe, which keeps the right side of raucous thanks to sweet and charming service. 

Bringing an Izakaya to Brighton, Bincho Yakitori is a result of head chef and owner, Dave Miney, spending years working as a ‘gaijin’ (foreigner / non Japanese citizen) in Tokyo. 15 hour days, 6 days a week for nearly three years became his education for Japanese Cuisine. As time passed, a desire to open a restaurant began, and a small crew was assembled of like minded izakaya fans, who came back to the UK to turn it into a reality.

An unassuming spot from the outside, has a dark and unfussy exterior, much like the inside which consists of dim mood lighting and a small selection of tables and bar stools, whilst the kitchen takes centre stage at the back of the room. Large grills, which are used for a majority of the cooking, take up a large portion of the galley. 

The food menu is printed every week, with specials are drawn up daily. At Bincho Yakitori, the dishes are made for sharing, are cooked to order, and served as and when they’re ready. There are no starters or main courses, just simple food with big flavours, which is often grilled over a natural fire. Expect small dishes of fried chicken, charred corn, grilled salmon, and of course the restaurant's namesake chicken yakitori. 

For drinks there are cold premium Japanese beers and a few craft brews from the South East. Sake is also available, with a modestly priced selection, as well as whisky, wine and the occasional cocktail.

Everything here is super informal, from the menu through to the restaurant itself, and lends itself as a casual dinner spot to catch up with friends. Whether it’s for a quick bite with a glass of sake or you’re in it for the long haul to work your way through the menu.