BAO gained a cult following after it first opened in Soho in 2013, but with it’s combination of faultless small plates and unbeatable branding, it’s no wonder it stole a piece of Londoner’s hearts. BAO Marylebone marks the fifth site for the popular Taiwanese group, but this time it comes with one crucial difference - there are dumplings on the menu too.
As ever, the decor is fairly pared-back, continuing a minimalist theme that runs through all of the restaurants, but with the welcome addition of an outdoor terrace (a relief for BAO loving dog owners everywhere).
We kick off our meal with the smoked aubergine and fried bao, that look deceptively like chips, and serve as the perfect tool for scooping. The beef tendon nuggets and aged beef rump rice that follow each bring the typical, unfussy approach to dining, with no fancy plating, just ingredients allowed to shine.
The dumplings are all worth the anticipation that came with this new opening, but it’s the boiled cull yaw dumplings that are a real stand out for us. They’re served in a bowl with chilli oil, and manage to pack a punch with every bite. It’s not a trip to BAO without ordering one of the now-iconic pillowy buns, and it’s safe to say the classic with braised pork belly and peanut crumb never fails.
With dessert, there’s only one option available - a fried horlicks bao - and it’s everything you didn’t know you needed. The ice cream is reminiscent of a Malteser without the chocolate, whilst the fried bao has a unique flavour and texture, creating both a perfectly original and reassuringly familiar dish.
For wine, BAO Marylebone offers a limited selection, but it serves it’s purpose. A bottle wont set you back a small fortune like most other restaurants in the area, and it lends itself as a great pairing alongside the food here, which is a win in our eyes.
This is another success story for BAO, with the main challenge here being trying not to order the entire menu - although we stand completely judgement free if you do.