Bancone Borough Yards

London’s obsession with fresh pasta was once just a trend, but now it feels like an intrinsic, indelible part of dining in the capital. Bancone was there at the beginning of it all, dropping jaws with bowls of slippery silk handkerchiefs in walnut butter, fresh datterini focaccia and ragu-stuffed mezzaluna.

Despite being widely-held to be among the best pasta restaurants in the capital, Bancone’s growth has been slow and steady - Bancone Borough is just the group’s third site, and they’ve set up shop in an expansive, semi-open space in Borough Yards. It’s lovely, to tell the truth - the front is completely open and alongside a bevy of potted plants it makes Bancone feel quite Mediterranean, albeit with industrial chic vents snaking across the ceiling. Grab a seat at the counter and Bancone provides entertainment too, as you get to see pasta dishes tossed and delivered to the pass in real time.

On the menu it’s business as usual, with a spread of antipasti to start, followed by pasta dishes and a trio of desserts. Opening snacks are a perfectly acceptable warm up - a good helping of speck with juicy caperberries and a decent wodge of focaccia. Chunks of grilled artichoke arrive on a bed of coarse romesco sauce - they’re a lovely pairing, even if the plate feels a little bare.

Pasta, though, is where Bancone cranks up into top gear. The pick of the bunch is a bowl of duck ragu with fazzoletti - a duck skin crumb adds a bit of crunch and the ragu itself is rich and meaty. At the other end of the scale, a plate of mackerel with seaweed butter paccheri holds a lot of promise but it's crying out for a squeeze of lemon to cut through the oily mackerel and butter combo.

Desserts are workmanlike but enjoyable - a slab of dense chocolate tart with mascarpone and lime does the job for those with a sweet tooth. Bancone’s bar staff do mix a good cocktail and the bar is a lovely spot for those on the hunt for an aperitivo around Borough Market, but overall, it’s a mixed bag. Bancone was once leading the pasta pack - now it feels more like part of the peloton.

The third restaurant from Bancone is located just a few steps away from Borough Market, where it brings its freshly-made pasta to yet another corner of London. The 'bancone' (meaning counter) remains at the heart of the restaurant's concept, with its main dining room centred around an open kitchen with counter dining - the perfect opportunity to catch a glimpse of the chefs in action. For those seeking a more intimate experience, however, there is a mezzanine space upstairs available for private dining.

Chef Ben Waugh is in charge of the menus, and brings with him a wealth of experience in the world of fine dining. His career includes a 10-year stint at the Gordon Ramsay Group, as well as a previous head chef position at Michelin starred restaurant Petrus. Under his guidance, Bancone continues to offer its guests culinary excellence and high-end service at a reasonable price point. 

The menu at Bancone features a selection of mouthwatering dishes including many of the tried-and-tested creations the restaurant has become well-known for. Think bucatini cacio e pepe which is a Bancone rite of passage, alongside pappardelle loaded with chicken liver, peppercorn and brandy, and a Borlotti bean ravioli with chicken butter, porcini and wild garlic. Personally, we like the sound of the chargrilled ginger pig pork chop special, served with radicchio, apple and flavourful, crispy pig skin.

On the drinks front, guests can choose from a classic cocktail list which includes Bancone's signature Negroni menu, offering a white with Suze and Lillet Blanc, or orange blossom option, crafted with gin, orange blossom, dry vermouth and campari. The wine list is also extensive, featuring the finest Italian bottles, plus selections from around the globe. We suggest enjoying a glass with the fluffy rosemary focaccia - a Bancone staple - while you decide what to eat.