“Small, unassuming gastropub with brilliant food”, proclaims a fan of this long-serving Chelsea favourite – although it has other laudable attributes too: the proper, welcoming bar still boasts guest beers, wooden seating and pretty flowers; a south-facing terrace gets packed in warm weather, and you can’t beat the button-back chesterfield beside an open when it’s chilly. The restaurant to the rear has the same simple accoutrements under a pitched glazed roof, while the open kitchen delivers a skilful, speedy and constantly changing menu of gutsy, wholesome food. In winter, you might fancy pickled mackerel with beetroot, red onion and horseradish followed by wild boar sausages with mash and kale, veal meatballs with linguine or corn-fed chicken breast with pot-roasted root vegetables and chestnuts. Generous portions, sensibly priced wines and sweet, willing staff make this durable hostelry well worth a detour.