Alex Dilling at Hotel Cafe Royal

Many chefs spend their entire careers trying to win a Michelin star, which is what makes Alex Dilling – the man who achieved not one but two stars straight off the bat – so remarkable. It was clear from the start that his eponymous restaurant was gunning for the accolade; we visited when it first opened in September 2022 and were dazzled the first time round by Dilling’s unwavering precision and attention to detail. A year and a half later and the story is a similar, if not superior, one.

Granted, the dining room does that slightly annoying thing of reminding you you’re in a hotel: a neutral colour palette of pale greys and brilliant whites makes us acutely aware of every runaway crumb that escapes our plates. But this luxurious, if a little lacklustre, backdrop merely serves as a blank canvas for Dilling’s inventive, extraordinary cooking.

If you're wondering what separates a one-star restaurant from a two, it’s all in the detail. Every course is constructed with a microscopic lens and comprises multiple elements which require a team of staff to deliver to the table. Case in point: two bite-sized cubes of Iberico pork pate sandwiched between smooth foie gras, are served alongside pickled cucumber fashioned into a rose, honey mustard hollandaise and a flaky, perfectly laminated truffle croissant. Sure, there are moments like this where the meal feels almost comically indulgent, but it’s a ride we’re willing to die on.

Dilling’s signature Hunter chicken is the high note to this symphony. A well-cooked piece of chicken encased in a rich mushroom duxelle, then served with a classic albufera sauce – oh, the sauce – that elevates the dish to unworldly heights. His version distils white port, brandy and foie gras into a glossy, umami rich gravy that with live rent free in our mind forever. The experience culminates with a chocolate ‘doughnut’ paired with the malty tang of sourdough ice cream, a mellow Pedro Ximénez sabayon and a crunchy-chewy tuille.

We sampled Alex Dilling’s lunch tasting menu, which for £125 inclusive of canapes and petit fours, feels like a steal for this level of cookery. The wine list will tip you into eye-watering territory, but as far as tasting menu experiences go, this is one of the finest, slickest operations in the capital.

Regent Street is blessed with another potential star in the making; this time it’s Alex Dilling - one time head chef of The Greenhouse and Helene Darroze at the Connaught - who arrives on this famous street with his first solo restaurant, Alex Dilling at Hotel Cafe Royal.

With a stunning view of the iconic Regent Street curve and across to Piccadilly Circus, this elegant dining spot seats only 34 guests, allowing for an intimate experience of Dilling’s contemporary French cuisine.

Decadence is infused in every aspect of the interiors, with details such as hand painted silk panelling and cosy, bespoke booths creating an exciting, fine dining ambience.

Dilling draws on inspiration from classic French gastronomy, and combines this with his own young, energetic cooking style. Diners have the option of a range of menus: a three-course lunch menu, and two evening menus - a seven course dinner menu, and a chef’s special menu of seven courses and additions, where guests will dine on the finest, seasonal ingredients in elevated, creative dishes.

This is no more evident than in Dilling’s bouillabaisse, where Dilling honours the beloved, traditional recipe, but elevates his fish soup with an indulgent oyster cream. Potato and aged Kaluga caviar complements a dish of salty, smoked sturgeon, and there’s more luxury courtesy of a Limousin veal sweetbread, served with smoked eel, watercress and a gribiche sauce. For dessert, diners can expect sweets that resemble works of art - spheres of intense Araguani chocolate are paired with smoked Piedmont hazelnut, and served alongside perfect spheres of aromatic Tahitian vanilla; this is a dessert you’ll want to leave room for.