The godfather of French cookery, Alain Ducasse is one of the world’s most decorated chefs. With 17 Michelin stars, he’s among the favoured few who need no introduction. Here, in London, part of his restaurant is built around a central, shimmering curtain of LED lights. It cascades from the ceiling, concealing one of the most exclusive private dining tables in the capital. It’s undeniably bling, but it’s the showstopper in a sea of zen, pared-back tables, and somehow it works. Plus, when dinner costs £200, sometimes a little theatre is welcome.
A touch more drama comes via last minute garnishes to many of the dishes by the pin-sharp staff who are experts at identifying the kind of service each table wants. They move with ease from one to the other, adding anecdotes for chattier guests while remaining painstakingly polite with others.
Alain Ducasse oversees the operation from afar, leaving his stoves under the guardianship of chef Jean-Philippe Blondet whose love of world-class ingredients is evidenced in every one of the precisely presented dishes. The tasting menu is a melody of the seasons, starting with a fat, buttery scallop in citrus beurre blanc, seasoned with caviar rather than salt.
As the courses evolve, there’s storytelling too. A beetroot, mackerel and wasabi plate combines Blondet’s wife’s favourite ingredients in a plate that smacks of freshness. This is food that transcends trends, exemplified in a combination that has been a diner favourite for over a decade: Lobster, chicken quenelles, truffle and sweet little tubes of al dente pasta. It’s a stunning blend, faultlessly executed. The meal finishes with a light-as-air rum baba in its own silver cradle, soaked in alcohol with pillowy whipped cream generously spooned onto its upturned halves.
At the price, many will be wondering, is it worth it? The simple answer is yes. Jean-Philippe Blondet has a blank cheque to recreate his mentor’s sophisticated take on haute cuisine and when paired with the exacting wine flight of A-list labels, this truly is a once in a lifetime experience worth saving for. C'est la perfection.