A serene townhouse in Notting Hill isn’t the first place you might look for Palestinian food.
Across its plaster washed levels, tables are tightly packed with staff squeezing plates on at every angle to make the generous offerings fit. Sharing plates are too often three bites for £15, but here dishes are piled high with horizon-expanding food.
In a delightful way nothing really comes as you’re expecting. Perhaps it’s because of relative ignorance when it comes to Palestinian food in this country, or perhaps it’s chef Fadi Kattan’s playful way of manipulating the flavours of his childhood into contemporary interpretations without losing their feeling of authenticity. Even the bread basket is an unexpected Jenga of good things, ready to topple too easily onto your plate. Before you know it you’re three wedges deep scooping up cumin laced beans and a moutabel which surprisingly takes red lentils and makes them really rather wonderful; soft and smooth and comforting. Kattan famously banned hummus on his menu, and his strength of feeling to not reduce the food of Palestine to predictable tropes is woven throughout a menu loaded with unfamiliar but gripping flavour combinations.
The fun but fantastically professional team wield huge trays laden up with more good things - like langoustine that have been unusually heavily spiced, and taste all the sweeter for the sauce of tomatoes, chilli and caraway they are snuggled into.
We're amongst a certifiably gentrified crowd, but there’s an air of jovialness that only upliftng food can bring. The heaving tables contribute to the whole thing feeling like a fiesta, but so do the continued surprises - cocktails to mix yourself, slow cooked lamb stuffed into fried pastry parcels and a baba as big as your head billowing with softly whipped cream and humming of fenugreek and cardamom.
In contrast to the sparky food and its kaleidoscope of colour is the buff background, a soothing antidote, and a combination that leaves you feeling both restored and reinvigorated - this is a proper place of peace.