Holy Carrot is all about fire and ferments. It's a familiar approach from chef co-founder Daniel Watkins' restaurant Acme Fire Cult, but at Holy Carrot, serves as a liturgy to the humble vegetable alone. Refined with an edge, this is the kind of vegan, plant-forward restaurant that can cater to both a well-heeled Notting Hill clientele and earthier Portobello Road thrifters.
It’s impossible to talk about Holy Carrot without a mention of its magnetic interiors. Led by the discerning eye of co-founder and ex-Vogue producer Irina Linovich, it’s like an ultramodern limestone cave. Textured walls curve as if hewn from stone to form sheltered nooks for gently lit tables and coal-black chairs. Keep walking, and you’ll find Watkins and team busily plating pickles, coal-roasted leeks, and grill-scorched veggies tossed in fiery sauces.
We begin with its signature koji bread, which is sour, verging-on-bitter in flavour, and intended as a vehicle for a chilli smoked mushroom ragu. Although we felt it slightly overpowered the rich subtleties of the prickly sauce, it’s easy to see why it’s a fan favourite. Elsewhere, punchy, harissa-spiced carrots are paired with a deft creamy hummus and the refreshing hit of shiso, while a bowl of Oyster mushrooms al pastor are punishingly good - hot and charred until crisp with pineapple and a silken tofu cream.
For dessert, a dark chocolate tahini cremeux with a salty caramel sauce hits all the right notes. We round off with a matcha tiramisu of lightly cultured ‘cream’ and sponge soaked in spent coffee kombucha. It’s a clever little thing, although after the almighty whack of flavour delivered with our main course, comes off a tad too gentle in comparison.
Calling Holy Carrot ‘vegan’ doesn't do it justice, and in some ways, neither does ‘plant-forward’, but we love that it refuses to be bound by rules or decorum. Its willingness to push boundaries is what makes it brilliant. Matched with an energetic atmosphere and an accessible list of natural and biodynamic wines, we can see it doing well in London’s progressive dining scene.