On a quiet corner of Clifton Village, 1 York Place has the buzz of somewhere special. The latest opening from Bristol’s Freddy Bird (Little French, LittleShop & Pantry), the 46-cover restaurant has huge windows, wood floors and dried foliage hanging from the ceiling.
Our server’s welcome matches the inviting interior. Water is poured, cocktails mixed at the mirrored bar are served in teeth-shatteringly-thin glass. The Americano is vibrant and wonderfully bitter, the Martini ice cold, lifted with two sea-green olives.
A compact menu offers plenty of variety. A la carte and almost impossible to choose between, dishes boast seasonal bounty and cross-European influence.
We start with scallops, sweet, delicate and swimming in vermouth butter and fresh dill. Gloriously seasonal starters follow. A zingy plate of creamy burrata, yuzu, fresh peas and broad beans. Wye Valley asparagus, steamed and brought to life with herbs and a toffee-sweet brown butter hollandaise.
Next, one of the restaurant’s signature sharers. For £70-100, you can feast on a platter groaning with lobster and shellfish, beef, or as we decide, Pyrenean leg of lamb. The lamb is rich, silky and perfectly seasoned, a result of its 4-hour cook with anchovy and onions. Served with a bowl of crisp, golden, garlicky potatoes, the recommended dry, fruity Nebbiolo pairs well. Soft tenderstem with salty anchoiade and toasted nuts also come with a fennel, basil and nectarine salad - the bright flavour and crunch proving the perfect accompaniment to the meat.
For dessert, balls of ice-cold, sweet rhubarb sorbet and a moussey chocolate tart with airy, salty brown sugar cream and roasted nuts.
Every dish is perfectly balanced - acidic yuzu cuts through creamy burrata, salty anchovies marry with sweet slow-cooked onions, fresh vegetables are brought to life with rich sauces and roasted nuts bring welcome texture to soft, airy tart. It's a masterclass in championing good ingredients, lifting simple dishes with clever pairings and sticking to flavour fundamentals.
You can't visit 1 York place every night, even if your funds could take it, it books up in advance - but make sure you do come, to celebrate a special occasion, or simply the joy of good food and service.