Owner Marcello Vargiu’s long-established homage to his native Sardinia is a lovely, sunny-looking space complete with cornflower-blue napkins, large windows, pale-yellow walls and alfresco tables under a canopy. Most of his customers are regulars from the wealthy streets surrounding the restaurant, and he knows many of them by name. The seasonal menu plays to the purchasing power of big bank balances, offering antipasti including venison carpaccio with baked figs in lavender honey ahead of Gragnano linguine with clams, osso bucco with mash and specials such as bruschetta topped with smoked tuna and black truffle or grilled T-bone steak with roasted vegetables. Prices reflect the affluent neighbourhood, although the weekly changing set lunch menu is a more wallet-friendly option. Bottles from family-run Sardinian vineyards play a starring role on the huge wine list.