The term ‘neighbourhood restaurant’ might conjure up a variety of images, but does that include a shelf stacked with about 30 varieties of gin? This is Charlotte’s Bistro – sister to Charlotte’s Place – and it’s a neighbourhood restaurant with nobs on. The front bar area is a draw in itself, with those gins deployed to winning use in bang-on Martinis and a variety of cocktails from classic to creative. Head up the steps to a cool, contemporary dining area at the back for plates of classy modern food. Ingredients are well chosen, with hearty dishes to the fore: the likes of glazed lamb’s tongue and slow-cooked ox cheek. There’s proper refinement in the delivery, though, with starters such as gin-cured salmon with bitter lemon and pickled cucumber up for grabs, followed by pan-fried bream with mussel chowder. Everything on the European-focused wine list is available by glass, carafe or bottle.