Tutto’s seafoam green awnings mark out a lovely section of Marlborough Place pavement. Although we’re here in the dead of a cold snap, crushing snow under our feet as we approach, it’s clear that this extensive covered terrace will be an incredibly popular spot on warmer days for spritz and a nibble.
The team has done a great job of the interiors too - the herringbone parquet floor is very smart, and the rest of the furnishings are sleek, modern, and well lit thanks to the large front windows and skylight. Blue and white hexagonal tiles mark out the central bar area, where staff mix up some good cocktails, like an excellent Martini Mare with Mermaid’s sea salt vodka, Italicus and Lillet Blanc.
Tutto’s food line up takes the form of small sharing plates, split into a variety of different styles, from raw and cured plates, to pasta and rice, to dishes from the wood-fired grill. The former of those sections was by far the most successful - a plate of delicate sea bass crudo made a perfect canvas for sharp segments of blood orange, fennel shavings and pomegranate seeds. Likewise a crostini was cleverly segmented so that each bite had just the right amount of pickled walnut, beef carpaccio, truffle and Parmesan. We loved a deeply wintery salad of salt baked celeriac, artichoke and chanterelles too, beautifully underpinned by the fresh, bitter crunch of radicchio and hazelnut.
At this point Tutto promised much but not everything was as successful. Tagliatelle cacio pepe with black truffle lacked any real punch of black pepper, and too much lemon juice made it a different dish entirely. A dish of crab spaghetti with garlic, chilli and bottarga was tasty but a little on the claggy side.
For the most part, though, Tutto’s small plates are very good, and the best was saved until last - a superb chocolate and hazelnut torte that assumed the form of a giant Ferrero Rocher, with silky fior di latte ice cream.
All in all, Tutto is a welcome addition to Brighton's relaxed restaurant set, and it'll be a glorious place to enjoy convivial lunch and aperitivo in the summer months.