This ramen specialist is a great name to know, whether you’re after a Selfridges shopping pit stop (the London and Birmingham stores both house branches) or a post-pub dose of Japanese nourishment. Tonkotsu’s titular ‘stock’ in trade comprises a bowl of rich pork-bone broth, slow-simmered to creamy, cloudy unctuousness, then heaped with thin handmade noodles, slices of pork belly, half a gooey soft-boiled egg, and a handful of spring onions; other variations made with a soy, salt or miso base are also popular. Impressively light gyoza and crunchy-coated chicken karaage are not to be missed either, but whether you can squeeze them in is another matter. Depending where you dine, you might be slurping your noodles in a narrow, no-frills dive or at a stylish counter within a swish department store – the only common elements being swift service and a coolly minimalist layout.