This independent Northern Quarter ramen house is modelled on those found in the backstreets of Japan has a cool, laid-back vibe to match. They make 200 litres of broth a day, and once it’s gone, they close the doors.
There are three signature ramen dishes, based on the rich 12-hour chicken-bone broth tori paitan, which is lighter than tonkotsu. Our tantanmen ramen was topped with crisp golden koji fried chicken, a soft boiled egg and earthy kale. It was rich with roast garlic and nutty sesame, a sharp hit of lime, and a confident kick of heat thanks to fermented chilli oil.
The shoyu ramen, meanwhile, was robust and salty, with a concentrated soy tare base and signature chicken broth, topped with tender torched pork belly, pickled mustard greens, nori, and a vivid green oil made with spring onions.
Elsewhere, the compact menu has just four small plates, based on classic izakaya dishes including koji fried chicken with sweetcorn mayo, spicy Korean ssamjang and yeast furikake seasoning; crispy octopus karaage with chickpea miso and citrussy ponzu sauce made with octopus ink; and a vegetarian-friendly tofu dish with smoked avocado.
Our beef yakiniku had skewers of beautifully marbled zabuton steak simply seared over a hot binchotan white charcoal grill until charred outside and pink within, smoky with coal and served with punchy black garlic.
The intensely savoury broths are deep and shimmering, the noodles beautifully bouncy. This place is all about the food, and every mouthful is a joy.
Photo credit: Lucas Smith