The White Horse Graffham

When you’re looking to escape to the country, The White Horse in Graffham ticks a lot of boxes. It’s surrounded by luscious green fields, wildlife provides a simple soundtrack, and there’s even a number of boutique rooms for when you fancy a drink or two. But the real perk is the restaurant situated at the back of this well-presented pub; tables are sprawled with white linen, waiters are dressed in suits, and fresh flowers grace each of the limited tables available. If it weren’t for the views out to gardens and woodland, you could be forgiven for mistaking it as another Mayfair haunt (particularly as head chef Grant Jones, and front of house, earned their stripes at Le Gavroche).

The food follows a similar theme of sophisticated and well presented. The tasting menu offers seven courses of well thought out dishes from seared scallops to Sussex sea bass, paying careful attention to seasonality and local produce. The wild garlic soup was as vibrant in flavour as it was in appearance, and warmed up our palates perfectly for what followed. The lamb cutlets were another favourite with the rich jus perfectly complimenting the expertly cooked meat.

For dessert, we indulged in a chocolate ‘brownie’ that showcased an elevated take on this classic pud. Mindblowingly gooey, it is smothered in chocolate sauce and served alongside a chocolate ice cream.

Whilst we can’t deny that each dish hit the mark in the flavour department, we felt a little hard done by as far as portions were concerned. There was a distinct lack of carbs throughout the meal, and perhaps the addition of a few more might’ve sealed the deal.

The wine pairing is a must when visiting, so that you can sample everything from English sparkling to Catalonion fortified. The White Horse is an idyllic retreat, and there’s even a cosy bar to slip into for a well earned night cap post dinner.

Located within the South Downs National Park, The White Horse Graffham is a seasonality-led restaurant underscored by classical French technique and an appreciation for local produce. From the moment you walk through the door, the dining room exudes the warmth of country cottages with a refined elegant streak. By day the restaurant is an idyllic restaurant with amber-hued natural light reflecting oatmeal and sage green tones. Come evening, tables lit with oil lamps and floral arrangements provide a romantic, almost homely atmosphere.

The White Horse Graffham menu, however, is far from homestyle. Devised by Le Gavroche trained chef Grant Jones, dishes are informed by French convention but elevated by modern innovation and quality Sussex produce. In fact, The White Horse has developed relationships with local suppliers from gamekeepers and Sussex farms to artisanal cheese makers and a father-and-son fishing boat duo based out of Chichester Harbour.

Though changing with the seasons, starters have included hand-dived scallops with celeriac puree, sea urchin, and calamansi; local cherry and tomato gazpacho with Dorset crab and dill oil; and venison tartare spiked with elderflower, tomato ponzu and served with oat crackers. When it comes to the mains, expect the likes of leek and goat cheese ravioli with sauteed wild mushrooms; South Coast lobster with a coconut volute; and pearlescent line caught Sussex sea bass with savoy cabbage and passionfruit sauce.

Desserts have included a spiced caramelised apple crepe served with apple sorbet and a luscious toffee sauce, black forest tart with kirsch marinated cherries and sorbet, and a coconut Malibu panna cotta. To pair, anticipate an artfully curated wine list featuring a collection of rare Bordeaux vintage, along with labels from the New World and lesser-known producers.