It’s not cheap and some bemoan its unselfconscious interior (wipe-clean place mats, paper napkins etc), but the Riverside has a certain gravitas that comes with years of being at the top. Owners Janet and Arthur Watson have been serving freshly caught, expertly cooked fish straight from the West Bay boats since they took over this unique waterfront venue in the 60s, when it was little more than a pokey seaside café. Since then they have re-built and expanded the place, but their commitment to quality has never waned – neither has the loyalty of their devoted followers. The menu is something of a flexible feast, determined by the local haul, but you can expect anything from plainly grilled fillets of lemon sole or brill with olive oil and lemon to prawns in a Thai broth or a sprawling seafood platter served with a hot, garlicky tomato sauce.