SquareMeal Review of The Pipe and Glass Inn
Silver Award
Done out in the best possible taste (think wood burners, heritage colours, polished woods and brown-leather chesterfields), this cracking 15th-century boozer out in the Yorkshire Wolds is known for using the best North Country produce in Michelin-starred dishes with thumping regional overtones. The kitchen works to exacting standards, but there’s nothing la-di-da about the food here, whether you’re in the mood for a salt-beef hash cake with fried quail’s egg, Yorkshire rhubarb ketchup and crispy pickled onion rings, parkin-crusted loin of roe deer with sticky red cabbage or fillet of wild halibut with salsify, baby leeks, crab croquette and blood orange bisque. To round things off, how about ‘five reasons to love chocolate’, a ‘trio of apples’ or cold lemon and thyme buttermilk pudding with a flapjack? Alternatively, grab a table by the crackling fire in the bar with a pint and a plate of James White’s bangers, bubble ‘n’ squeak and boozy ale gravy. This marvel of pubby virtues and fine food is also renowned for its “amazing Sunday lunches”, including 30-day aged sirloin of Yorkshire-reared beef.