With its pole position at the top of the Northcote Road, its comfy sofas, poshed-up décor and rakish atmosphere, this textbook pub run by Geronimo Inns is commensurate with bottles of champagne chilling in the bar. But the chalked up menu of populist dishes gladdens the eye of hungry diners and generally delivers consistently good results along the lines of cheap and cheerful braised beef shin and dumplings or Cumberland sausage with bubble and squeak, to Aberdeen Angus sirloin steak with chunky chips. Sandwiches and brunch provide further sustenance, all bookended with high levels of trademark Geronimo conviviality.