”A complete joy – a lovely venue”, proclaimed one fan of these brown-fronted, 17th-century listed premises, which scream tradition with their promise of ‘dinners and old wines, ports, game in season, shellfish…’ The ground floor’s charming all-wood interior has a touch of the East End boozer about it, but things get more refined in the comfy upstairs dining room, with its shaker-style design and green/beige colour scheme. Early risers can start the day with a fried-egg sandwich or full English fry-up, although the main menu leavens its patriotic offer of oyster fritters, devilled whitebait and queen of puddings with some interlopers in the shape of beef carpaccio with artichoke and pickled horseradish, scallops with cauliflower couscous or braised pork belly with sauerkraut and black pudding. The “extensive” wine list is a terrific read, with excellent tasting notes and some off-beat selections.