First impressions of The Lightship are pretty special - set on a boat at the end of a pontoon in Haslar Marina, you’re spoiled with unparalleled views of Portsmouth harbour by day, and the glistening lights of Gunwharf Quays by night.
The interior, on the other hand, could have you fooled into thinking you’re back on dry land. The space has been transformed into a flawless restaurant with emerald green sofas and hardwood flooring, whilst still leaving just enough of the original ship elements to keep it nautical.
We kick things off with a chicken caesar salad, which arrives as fried chicken beneath a smoky glass cloche, and an unassuming salad alongside; but neither are to be underestimated. With components like anchovy gremolata and Old Winchester cheese, this dish packs a serious punch, and could convert anyone to a plate of the green stuff.
Continuing to put a spin on a classic, the main sees fish and chips reimagined and given a contemporary twist. Pan fried cod loin is served alongside a salt and vinegar potato terrine, pea pureé, tempura samphire and warm tartare sauce, ticking all of the boxes for presentation, texture, and most importantly, that familiar flavour. The cod collapses at the slightest touch, showcasing expert seafood cookery, and is perfectly complemented by the tangy yet creamy sauce.
We round things off with an impossibly smooth dark chocolate delice, where the intense richness is somewhat mellowed by a salted caramel ice cream - and whilst it carries a definite risk of death by chocolate, we can’t think of a better way to go.
The wine list doesn’t push boundaries, but it’s modestly priced, with the house options coming in at a fraction of what you’d expect to find in a restaurant of this calibre, which is something we can definitely get onboard with (excuse the pun).
For an area that’s previously been overshadowed by the likes of Portsmouth and the Isle of Wight, The Lightship may just be the guiding light to put Gosport back on the foodie map.