The landlords of this spruced-up Victorian tavern take their drink just as seriously as their food, providing handy tasting notes for moderately priced wines, and attracting real ale enthusiasts with a regularly changing line-up – perhaps Adnams Lighthouse, Otter Ale and Naked Ladies (from Twickenham Fine Ales). The pub’s current chef earned his stripes at Vinoteca in Soho, so expect Spanish cured meats, Italian artisan cheeses and Greek deli specialities alongside sustainable fish from British waters, Elwy Valley lamb and Shropshire venison. Typical offerings might range from Hereford beef carpaccio or grilled Cornish mackerel with samphire and ginger dressing to Barnsley chop with fresh cocoa beans, soutzouki, chard and gremolata or hake with chorizo, mussels, clams and potatoes, followed by chocolate St Emilion or Pimms jelly with Chantilly. The conservatory is a plum setting for romantic dinners, and there’s a leafy garden out back.