Hidden down leafy Costwold lanes amid the Farncombe Estate, this splendidly converted 17th-century farmhouse has emerged from a lavish refurbishment – although it still boasts tourist-friendly oak beams, panelling, flagstone floors and roaring fires alongside some dramatic new design flourishes. Serious dining now takes places in the Garden Room – a cleverly contrived space with large glass windows overlooking the gardens. The cooking follows the seasons, with British ingredients given a modern makeover – as in breast of wood pigeon with parsley mash and lentils, roast rack of Lighthorne lamb with a mini shepherd’s pie, local sprouts, tomato and split pea jus or gooseberry crumble soufflé with custard ice cream. Thirty wines by the glass and carafe top the prestigious global wine list. Lighter meals and drinks are available all day in the rustic Potting Shed.