If you want to know how a gastropub struts its stuff on one of London’s most expensive streets, drop into The Enterprise. Here you’ll see white cloths on every table (even the alfresco ones), jackets on all the men, beers served in stemmed glasses and plenty of wines by the 50cl ‘pot’. Drinkers congregate in the handsome Victorian-style bar for a goodly selection of real ales and nibbles such as Mozzarella sticks and courgette tempura; on the other side, there’s a dining area with a tiny open kitchen dishing out capably executed seasonal ideas ranging from a Cornish crab pasty with coriander, apple and mooli salad to tapenade-crusted haddock with cauliflower cheese, chorizo and red pepper purée or slow-roast suckling pig with Toulouse sausage and white bean stew. After that, summer pudding or pineapple tarte Tatin await. “Unfailingly brilliant service” adds to the infectious vibe.