A pub that has stood in Manchester’s Ancoats since 1811, The Edinburgh Castle reopened in 2019 with an upstairs dining room which, since 2022, has been presided over by executive chef Shaun Moffat. While the ground floor of the building retains a traditional pub atmosphere, along with a menu of all-day quality bar food, the dining room has a slightly more formal (though still relaxed) vibe, with tan leather chairs, parquet floors, and huge windows bathing the space in natural light.
The dining room’s regularly changing menu is also more formal, with dishes celebrating British produce, local suppliers and seasonality. Sourdough comes from the nearby Pollen Bakery, with local favourites Littlewoods Butchers and The Crafty Cheese Man supplying meat, cheese and dairy. Moffat’s CV includes stints with Mark Hix and the Jamie Oliver Group, John Salt, Manteca and Berber & Q, and his experience shows in a series of hearty yet refined dishes.
Our dinner began with appetising snacks - fresh, salty Achill rock oysters with a piquant mignonette sauce made with Bagthorpe Farm onions from Norfolk, and light savoury doughnuts dusted with Mrs Kirkham’s Lancashire cheese - before diving into a starters list heavy with vegetables and fish. House-cured steelhead sea trout was garnished with jewel-like roe and bitter puntarelle leaves from the local Cinderwood Market Garden in Cheshire, while Shetland mussels were plump and sweet with new season leeks and cider.
Mains are on the heftier side - pork chops, a pie of the day, whole fish, and North Yorkshire mallard to share - with decent meat-free options, too. Our Red Poll porterhouse to share was cooked perfectly pink with a layer of intensely rich and savoury fat, served with crisp beef dripping potatoes, bread that had been dredged through the meat juices, and buttery kale. Puddings include some classics, such as fresh madeleines and tarte tatin, as well as a sticky, spicy, syrupy slab of Yorkshire parkin.
With its enticing menu, accomplished cooking, and locally-sourced ethos, The Edinburgh Castle feels like a country gastropub in the heart of the city. Any meal here is an utter joy.