The Don

The Don is one of many old-school institutions in London’s Square Mile. Tucked away amongst the hordes of high-rise buildings, it pitches itself perfectly as a lunchtime or after-work escape for the area’s clientele.

Housed in the Sandeman Quarter, the building is steeped in history, but a recent refurb has left the restaurant in tip-top shape: the cool blues, plush velvets and ornate gold detailing are unassuming in their grandeur, creating a more relaxed atmosphere whilst still conforming to the rules of fine dining.

Suit-clad staff are astute in their service, ensuring that no glass is left unfilled. Bowls of olives and baskets of steaming bread immediately find their way to the table before we’ve even had a chance to check the menus. It’s seamless and skillful; the team floats around the room, anticipating our every need. We relax in our seats, confident in the hands of experts.

You won’t find a tasting menu here. Instead, The Don offers a succinct a la carte - a complete contrast to the tome-like wine list. Dishes here are broadly modern European: each plate simple, yet artfully arranged.

A spinach and wild garlic soup arrives with a bit of fanfare:, the foamy liquid poured over a scoop of ricotta into a pristine bowl, not a drop out of place. We appreciate the slightly unusual take on the spinach and ricotta combination, but it lacks the promised kick from a chilli crumb which would have been welcome.

Mains continue the trend, curating just a few key elements in well executed, classic dishes. A meaty fillet of skrei cod arrives swimming in a pool of potted shrimp butter. It’s perfectly pleasant, but a pease pudding base goes unnoticed, lost against the buttery fish.

Dessert ends the evening on a high. A tangy lemon posset, topped with blueberry jam, feels effortless in its simplicity. We devour every bite, wiping the bowl clean with sugar-doused beignets, fresh out the oven and delightfully sweet against the lemony tartness.

Classic fine dining, with a slightly lower price tag than many of its neighbours, The Don excels in its attentive service, offering a sophisticated escape in the heart of the city.

On the hunt for top places to eat in the square mile? The Don at The Sandeman Quarter is a contemporary restaurant serving a seasonally-changing modern European menu alongside a diverse wine list. It’s something of a City institution with a history dating back to the early 1800’s. It lives in the same building as Bar 1790, in The Sandeman Quarter on St Swithins Lane, which was once the home of Sandeman Port until 1967. It more recently re-opened its doors in 2023 following a four-year hiatus, with a brand-new look and management team. 

The stylish interiors centre around a blue and yellow colour scheme, with a stunning underlit blue bar and canary yellow stool seating and lighting. White tablecloths signal that this is still a fancy sort of place, while large windows overlooking the street outside flood the room with lots of natural light during the day.  

The menu changes regularly in line with the seasons, with a set offering for lunch and an a la carte menu for dinner. In the evening, you might expect to start with the likes of golden beetroot and Rosary goats’ cheese with elderflower and Champagne dressing, or ballotine of Cotswold chicken with smoked ham hock, girolles and tarragon mayonnaise. Mains include guinea fowl breast with baby leeks, peas, cocotte potatoes and Albufera sauce, and aged fillet of beef with Bordelaise Sauce. While desserts continue along the classic theme.  

The wine list features the largest collection of ports and wines in the City, so don’t sleep on this. If you have trouble deciding on the best bottle to pair with your meal, simply ask a member of the team who will be happy to assist. You can expect a range of global wines available by the glass or bottle, along with port, madeira and sherry.