Hospitality maestros Matt and Katie Beamish have a stellar track record for spearheading inviting, stylish, food-focused pubs, with their latest project being this 17th-century inn just north of Oxford. It’s the sort of place one would want to find themselves on a bitter winter’s evening, sipping a local ale in the warm glow of the log-burning fire. Or at least, this was our first impression when entering the traditional pub, which is all low wooden-beamed ceilings, sandy-hued stone walls and flagstone floors.
The interconnecting restaurant is notably smarter in style while still retaining plenty of country pub charm. There’s a beautiful sage green conservatory filled with plants and homely touches, from a large red Persian rug to mismatched wooden tables and chairs. Here, diners can choose from an assortment of modern British dishes and pub classics, with a focus on local and seasonal ingredients. Traditional classics such as fish and chips, burgers and pies are all present, but the menu caters more than adequately for special occasion dining, too.
A starter of herb gnocchi comprising of soft, cheesy nuggets of dough, doused in butter and pancetta, was delicious if a little heavy. To follow, succulent, grilled lemon sole flaked away easily from the bone and was served alongside a glossy pool of lemon butter sauce. Presentation could be picked at for lacking finesse, but the food here isn't trying to be fine dining so this didn’t bother us. We finished with a salted chocolate rye fondant, which was just-cooked to the point of perfection and served with a scoop of salted caramel ice cream.
Young, keen, friendly-faced staff deliver dishes with a smile and we trundle out the restaurant feeling very well looked after at the end of the night. The Crown is a bolthole for locals and holiday-makers alike looking to enjoy some R&R in a soul-warming setting. And you can always book one of its five boutique rooms to make a weekend of it - we had a hard time leaving, too.