The Counter

Turkish chef Kemal Demirasal has taken the path less travelled to chef-dom; not content with being a national champion windsurfer, Demirasal retired from riding waves in 2007 and has since reigned over a number of successful restaurants in Turkey. The Counter is his first foray outside of his home country and he’s picked a diminutive site in Notting Hill for his ocakbasi counter, just a short stroll from Ladbroke Grove.

The dining room itself does a lot with a little - this compact space could feel confined but Demirasal has done clever work, ushering natural light through the restaurant from front to back and giving the space an organic, Anatolian vibe. Earth tones meet lots of wood and exposed brick, and sprawling pot plants add a splash of green. Towards the back of the restaurant light gleams off a marble dining counter which curves around the open fire grill and kitchen.

The Counter menu is built on a foundation of authentic Turkish cooking, but again, Demirasal’s creative mind is clearly at play from the start. You might skip past the idea of chocolate babaganoush, but in reality, a touch of white chocolate is almost undetectable save for a hint of sweetness that really draws out other aromatics like dill and rose. With hummus, Demirasal works more magic with an otherwise familiar dish - medjool dates and currants bring sweetness, contrasted by the mild bitterness of paprika oil.

The grill is the heart of the restaurant, of course, and it turns out some delicious treats. Among the best are succulent lamb chops, which have been gently kissed by the flames before arriving with apricot and mint couscous pilaf. The portions are also extremely generous by our standards, and everything arrives promptly from chefs behind the counter.

Hidden up the restaurant’s sleeve is a genuinely impressive cocktail list created by Cihan Anadologlu, who also ran the pioneering Circle bar in Munich. Anadologlu's house mixes blend aspects of the food in with the drinks - try the Satir Kiyma for example, which combines lamb fat-washed rye whisky, red pepper and chilli flakes with orange bitters and molasses.

The Counter is Turkish chef and restaurateur Kemal Demirasal’s first London restaurant where he brings ocakbasi cooking (which translates to ‘fireside’ or ‘by the grill’) to Golborne Road in Notting Hill. Aiming to bring together traditional south eastern Anatolian cooking styles with Kemal’s own signature take on Turkish cuisine, this unique concept offers guests original and authentic sharing plates alongside inventive cocktails.

Central to the dining experience is sitting at the counter and watching the chefs at work in the open kitchen, as they cook various dishes over a charcoal-fried mangal oven. Special attention is also paid to the quality of ingredients, with spices sourced from the country's Hatay region, tahini from Edremit and molasses imported from Harran.

The 45-cover restaurant is designed to offer diners a relaxed and comfortable dining experience while introducing them to an elevated take on traditional ocakbasi dining. The menu changes monthly in line with the seasons but you can expect a roster of small and large sharing plates. Examples of snacks include clotted cream honey sourdough with dukkah, while thyme honey and truffle oil, and a traditional soup made with red lentils, pepper, mint and dill oil. There are also more explorative dishes such as chocolate babaganoush with white chocolate dukkah, as well as plenty of kebabs, dips, and salads. To finish, desserts include sage-infused burnt rice pudding with hazelnut.

To drink, an extensive selection of wines from Turkey are sourced from the Turkish Wine Co. alongside wines from regions in Greece, Croatia and beyond. Guests can also expect a wide list of premium rakis, and a cocktail menu where Turkish ingredients are highlighted in inventive creations.

The interiors have been put together by Gurcan Dere Design Studio and designed to mimic the intimacy of a Turkish home. Think exposed brick walls, industrial steel beams, misshapen tables and a beautiful Persian carpet.