Being set in a newly restored Victorian glasshouse makes for light & relaxed dining here. A modern British menu is on offer with just a nod to classical influences. Excellent ingredients & a deft touch in the kitchen means there are some real treats on offer, from ham hock ballottine & courgette chutney to mains of memorably delicious lemon sole with peas & pancetta & a chive sauce to a satisfyingly hearty eight hour Cornish lamb with garlic mash. Apple creme brulee & shortbread biscuits is a good way to finish. Friendly, unobtrusive service & a loyal local following make for a good atmosphere.